An exfoliant or home peel should not be missing in your skincare routine. Regular exfoliation gives your skin a fresh, even appearance and can also help with impurities or extra hydration. But how do you choose the right home peel? Below I share my tips and product recommendations.
Why is exfoliation so important?
An exfoliant gently removes dead skin cells, leaving your skin looking fresher and smoother. As you age 30, this process becomes less efficient, making exfoliation increasingly important. Not only does it make your skin look brighter, it also helps improve the absorption of other products in your skincare routine.
How to choose the right exfoliant?
How do you know if an exfoliant works and what should you look for? My tips:
- Fragrance-free: Choose an exfoliant that is fragrance-free, which can be identified by the word “parfum” or “fragrance” on the ingredients list (INCI).
- Low alcohol concentration: Alcohol should not be high on the ingredient list. Read more about which alcohols to avoid here.
- Correct acid concentration: The effectiveness of an exfoliant depends on the correct concentration of acids. Glycolic acid works well around 8%, salicylic acid at 1-2%, and lactic acid between 5-10%.
- pH value: An effective home peel usually has a pH value between 3 and 4. If in doubt, ask the manufacturer about the pH value of the product.
- Soothing ingredients: For daily use, exfoliants with soothing ingredients in addition to the acids are often better tolerated.
Which acids are suitable for beginners?
If you’re new to exfoliating, choose a milder version with larger molecules, such as salicylic acid or lactic acid. These are gentler on the skin than glycolic acid, which can penetrate deeper due to its smaller molecules. For beginners, lower percentages and milder formulations are ideal.
Choosing an acid based on your skin type?
For oily or troubled skin, acids such as salicylic acid are often a good choice, because they are fat-soluble and tackle excess sebum. However, sometimes glycolic acid works better for certain skin types due to its deeper penetrating effect. The most important thing is to see how your skin reacts and adjust if you see little effect.
Build up slowly
Start exfoliating two to three times a week and build up slowly. If your skin starts to feel irritated, scale back. Eventually, depending on your skin type, you can use an exfoliant once a day. More is not always better; find what works for you.
Please note: Purging may occur at the start or when increasing the acid percentage, which means that there will be more impurities temporarily. This is usually short-lived and after a week or two your skin should become calmer and more radiant.
Product recommendations
Dr. Jetske Ultee | Exfoliant for normal to oily, troubled and/or sensitive skin
- 1% salicylic acid, licorice root extract, evodia & allantoin
- pH 3.5 – 4.0
- Gentle enough for beginners and sensitive skin types
Dr. Jetske Ultee | Exfoliant for normal to dry skin
- 8% glycolic acid, beta-glucan & allantoin
- pH 3.5 – 4.0
Paula's Choice | Calm 1% BHA Exfoliant
- 1% salicylic acid, beta-glucan & green tea extract
- pH 3.2 – 3.8
Pestle And Mortar | Lactic Acid Toner
- 5.34% lactic acid & niacinamide
- pH 3.8
Drunk Elephant | Protini Power Peptide Resurf Serum
- 10% lactic acid, peptides & hyaluronic acid
- pH 3.5
Paula's Choice | Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Lotion Exfoliant
- 8% glycolic acid, allantoin & licorice root extract
- pH 3.5 – 3.9
Drunk Elephant | TLC Raspberry Glycolic Night Serum
- 10% AHA's (Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid) & 1% Salicylic Acid
- pH 3.5
Allies of Skin | Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum
- 11% mandelic acid, lactic acid & salicylic acid, bakuchiol & niacinamide
- pH 3.5
Conclusion
What works well for one skin may not be as suitable for another. It is therefore important to look critically at ingredients and to be patient. Take the time (at least six weeks) to assess whether a product works for you.